Dressmaker&#39;s rule.



E. C. WATTERS. DRESSMAKERS RULE. APPLICATION FILED APB.24, 1913.

1, 1 08,040, Patented Aug. 18, 1914.

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E. C. WATTERS.

DRESSMAKEB.S RULE.

APPLIOATION FILED Anm-1, 191s.

Patented Aug. 18, 1914 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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' EDWARD C. WATTERS, OF KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI.

DRESSHAKER/S RULE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 18, 1914.

Application filed April 24, 1913. Serial No. 763,234.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD C. lVATrERs, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Kansas City, in the county of Jackson and State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dressmakers Itules; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear,and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to dressmakers rules, and more particularly to a square for use in laying off patterns for ladies waists and coats, the principal object of the invention being to provide a rule having conguration and markings bearing a relationship to parts ofa waist or coat pattern.

In accomplishing the above object I have provided certain details of structure, the preferred form of which is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

Figure I'is an elevation "of a. dressmakers rule Vconstructed in accordance with my invention. Fig. II is a similar opposite side of the same. Fig. spective view of mating ends of the rule, showing the tongue and groove connection therebetween. Fig. IV is an elevation of a rule having a modified form of arm. Fig. V is a similar viewof the opposite side of the same. Fig. VI is a diagrammatic view of a sleeve pattern drawn with my improved rule. Fig. VII is a similar view of a pattern for one side of a ladys shirtwaist.

Referring more in detail to the parts 1 designates a rule having a straight outer edge 2, and a curved inner edge 3 which conforms to the long, easy curves required for cutting a waist pattern, each side of the rule being divided into any number of equal parts, such as inches or fractions thereof. One endof the rule is beveled to forty-live degrees, and preferably provided with a slot 4 into which is secured a metal tongue 5 that is adapted for cooperation with a slot 6 formed in a metal piece 7 and rigidly secured in the leg 8. The leg 8 is irregular in shape and has a neck portion whose inner edge is concave and whose outer edge is III is a per- -slightly convex, and which terminates in an enlarged head whose edges are convex except for a lslight depression near the extremity lsite side of the arm 8 lthat the side 8,

'View of the Anumeral 16 of t-he ofthe outer'edge, the configuration being especially adapted for marking off sleeve patterns and locating the exact position of a sleeve on the body of a waist. In order to facilitate the use of this portion of t-he rule, certain portions of one side have been divided into sections of various lengths, which will be referred to as A, H, I andJ, and each section is divided equally, with respect to its length, into five parts designated by the numerals 14-16 '18 20 and 22, which refer to the size or number of inches around the sleeve at the point of contact with the waist. The oppo` and the faces of the arm 9 shown in Figs. IV and V may be divided into any number of equal parts.

In laying off a sleeve pattern of any size between 14 and 22 inclusive, say, for example, a N o. 16, as shown in Fig. VI, the rule in the form shown in Fig. IV is placed upon a double thickness of pattern paper and the line 10-11-12 drawn lightly with a crayon. The arm 9 is then replaced with the arm 8, and the rule again placed on the pattern so which has a very slight curvature, lies upon the line 11-12 and the group B lies on the line 10-11 at 5. A point a is then made opposite the numeral 16 a to the numeral 16 of group (l, and another point f placed opposite the numeral 16 of group F. A line b f av is then drawn through b and f and the rule swung around so that the numeral 16 of group D lies on point a and the numeral 16 of group E lies on the line b f w, at which latter place the point i e is located, and a line drawn between a and 6. A line 13-14 is then drawn through e at right angles to t-he line 11-12. It will be seen that a line c b a e has been drawn, each point of which is definitely located with respect to the construction lines and which represents the upper portion of the outer three-quarters of a sleeve. A line 17-18 is then drawn through c parallel to b f and a point L located thereon the same distance from one side of line 10-11 as the point o is from the other. The square is again placed on the pattern so that the numeral 16 of group I-I lies on the point h and the numeral 16 of group G lies on the line b f at which point the point g is of groupv A and a line a b c drawn from the point points o and p located and the line ZL g drawn which represents the upper portion of' the under one quarter of the sleeve. The length of the sleeve is laid off on the line 1011 from the intersection of 'the line l'Z-lS and a point Z7 located, midway between which and the intersection just referred to, and at right angles to the line lO-ll is inscribed the line of the elbow 1.9-20.

The rule is placed on the pattern so that the vertex lies on the line 1 3-14 and a point j located on the line 19-20` opposite the numeral 1G of group J. Another point Zu is also located on the line 19-20 the same distance on one side of the point j as the line 12B-1li is from the other, and the points e j and g Z3 connected by heavy lines. The point ot' intersection ot the lines 19-20 and l0 and 11 will be designated as m and another point n is located on the line 19--20` a distance from the point m equal to the distance c Z1, and the points c m and 7L a respectively connected by heavy lines.

ln order to conform to the natural bend of the arm and allow space ltor the elbow, the wrist portion should be brought back to the line c 0', or, as in the case of the under sleeve, to the line 7L a. This, howover, would necessitate the wearer holding her arm straight down rather than in the natural positionwith the wrist in advance of the shoulder. ln order to compensate for this characteristic, the sleeve either must be swung forward at the shoulder or it must be cut so as to throw the lower portion ahead, the latter being the preferable method. The are laid oit' the same distance on each side or' the line/c c as the points c and 7L are from the line 10,-11 and the lines a 2) and m o drawn.

rl`he rule is again placed on the pattern so that the long arm passes through the point j and the short arm through th-e point Z, a distance Z o is measured oit nected by a line "under pattern and the short line 0 Z `l outer end n and outer edges being provided with groups on the short arm equal to the distance n 7c and the line j o Z drawn intersecting the points. The points t la and 'u are also con- Zr o to complete the drawn at the same angle to the line c c as the line Z o to complete the outer pattern.

The pattern thus constructed is cut along the outer lines through both thicknesses of paper andl then the upper thickness trimmed to the inner lines,

In attaching the sleeve to the body oit the waist, a point s is located the same distance from the line .2l-22 as the point 71. 7 is from the line ILO-d1 and the numeral 16 ot group H placed on the point. The rule then is moved so that the numeral 1G of the group C registers with the sleeve socket and the point t located.

It is apparent that the points .s 'and t determine the location ot the under portion of the sleeve, and hence the whole sleeve.

The various curves on the rule may be used in drawing in any curve in the pattern, such as shaping the sleeve socket or waist line.

Having thus described my invention, what l claim as new therein, and desire to secure by LettersPatent, is

En a dressmahers rule, a member comprising a head having a convex inner edge and a concave-convex outer edge, the concaved portion of the outer edge being adyacent the of the head, and both the inner ot characters wherebycardinal points of'a sleevepattern may be determined by like characters in different groups.

ln testimony whereof I aiiiX my signature in presence of twot witnesses.

` EDWARD c Warmte lNitnesses:

An'rrrnn W. Cars, Ln'rri E. COATS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the A ornmissioner o f latents,

Washington, D. C. 

